dequincey
Forista Legendario
...y ademas hacerlo con el subchasis en el coche,...je, je
a ver, poderse, se puede, pero es un coñazo
la cuestión es que hay poquísimo acceso a las cabezas de los cuatro tornillos hexagonales M8x55 que soportan este soporte
este soporte en el caso de e9 es una pieza completa de acero que contiene el silentblock de goma en su interior, lo digo porque me han soplado que no es el caso de otros coches, vean aqui, lo dorado es grasa de cobre
añado una vista de la placa "p" con sus tornillos hexagonales y una vista de la tuerca "n", he puesto placas nuevas porque una estaba doblada
pongo ahora el dibujico esquematico y la explicación
schematic:
the sequence is:
support the car body with "S" and put a Jack "j" that must exert pressure to the subframe
undo nut "n" a bit and leave it there until undoing the two M8 bolts that fix the plate "p", then remove nut "n", the plate and put the nut "n" in place again
remove the rear seat, and put it out from the car, this will give you acces to the head of bolt "b", spraying some penetrant oil the day before wont hurt you ;-)
remove the Jack "j" from the subframe and use it to forcé the big bolt "b" up by means of exerting pressure on the nut "n" (this is a better method than hitting the bolt with a mallet, the top of the bolt use to be very tight in its housing), now remove the nut "n" and forcé the bolt completely out up (this time a mallet will do)
now remove the four M8x55 bolts (1,1´,2,5), leaving the subframe loose will grant a Little but enough Access to the head of those bolts, once the bolts are out, the bushing will fall down in the palm of your hand, yes
in order to remove bolt number 2, you must remove nut 3, and move a bit out bolt number 4 to provide way
clean well the surface and place the new bushing, if posible with the four bolts (1,1´,2,5) in place otherwise it will be very difficult to introduce them, secure them with the four nuts immediately and start tightening them while assuring the surfaces are in close and even contact, do them diagonally
it will be not an easy thing use the best tools, curved or similar to block the bolt heads while tightening the nuts, those are selfblocking nuts, so blocking the bolt heads is a must
if posible use new bolts and nuts
bolts 1,1´,2,5 are 10.9 quality
bolt "b" is a very special one, buy it from BMW
the nut "n" is critical, M14x1,5 is a high quality because it must stand 150 N.m torque, buy it from BMW
when new bushing is fixed use the Jack again to lift the subframe up while helping the bushing to accomodate its top side "6" into the body frame, the Jack vertically and a mallet horizontally, will help doing this
when the bushing is in contact with the body you can introduce the new bolt "b" in its place, accomodate the vertical marks of the bolt into their housing, and use a mallet to let them slip into place a bit, previously a dab of copper grease would help to this operation
then, place the plate "p" securing it with the nut "n", do the two M8 hexagonal bolts that support the front part of the plate, and finally do the nut "n", initially you will be pressing the bolt "b" until its final seat in the body, but when it stops give the prescribed torque as 150 N.m to nut "n"
do not forget to do nut "3",
and that is all
a ver, poderse, se puede, pero es un coñazo
la cuestión es que hay poquísimo acceso a las cabezas de los cuatro tornillos hexagonales M8x55 que soportan este soporte
este soporte en el caso de e9 es una pieza completa de acero que contiene el silentblock de goma en su interior, lo digo porque me han soplado que no es el caso de otros coches, vean aqui, lo dorado es grasa de cobre
añado una vista de la placa "p" con sus tornillos hexagonales y una vista de la tuerca "n", he puesto placas nuevas porque una estaba doblada
pongo ahora el dibujico esquematico y la explicación
schematic:
the sequence is:
support the car body with "S" and put a Jack "j" that must exert pressure to the subframe
undo nut "n" a bit and leave it there until undoing the two M8 bolts that fix the plate "p", then remove nut "n", the plate and put the nut "n" in place again
remove the rear seat, and put it out from the car, this will give you acces to the head of bolt "b", spraying some penetrant oil the day before wont hurt you ;-)
remove the Jack "j" from the subframe and use it to forcé the big bolt "b" up by means of exerting pressure on the nut "n" (this is a better method than hitting the bolt with a mallet, the top of the bolt use to be very tight in its housing), now remove the nut "n" and forcé the bolt completely out up (this time a mallet will do)
now remove the four M8x55 bolts (1,1´,2,5), leaving the subframe loose will grant a Little but enough Access to the head of those bolts, once the bolts are out, the bushing will fall down in the palm of your hand, yes
in order to remove bolt number 2, you must remove nut 3, and move a bit out bolt number 4 to provide way
clean well the surface and place the new bushing, if posible with the four bolts (1,1´,2,5) in place otherwise it will be very difficult to introduce them, secure them with the four nuts immediately and start tightening them while assuring the surfaces are in close and even contact, do them diagonally
it will be not an easy thing use the best tools, curved or similar to block the bolt heads while tightening the nuts, those are selfblocking nuts, so blocking the bolt heads is a must
if posible use new bolts and nuts
bolts 1,1´,2,5 are 10.9 quality
bolt "b" is a very special one, buy it from BMW
the nut "n" is critical, M14x1,5 is a high quality because it must stand 150 N.m torque, buy it from BMW
when new bushing is fixed use the Jack again to lift the subframe up while helping the bushing to accomodate its top side "6" into the body frame, the Jack vertically and a mallet horizontally, will help doing this
when the bushing is in contact with the body you can introduce the new bolt "b" in its place, accomodate the vertical marks of the bolt into their housing, and use a mallet to let them slip into place a bit, previously a dab of copper grease would help to this operation
then, place the plate "p" securing it with the nut "n", do the two M8 hexagonal bolts that support the front part of the plate, and finally do the nut "n", initially you will be pressing the bolt "b" until its final seat in the body, but when it stops give the prescribed torque as 150 N.m to nut "n"
do not forget to do nut "3",
and that is all
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