Legalmente lo mas que puedes hacer es ajustar al limite en las condiciones de utilización, aparte y muy obviamente, aunque para muchos no lo es, opticas y lamparas en perfecto estado, En un coche familiar, o dicho de otro manera que puede ir solo con el conductor o a tope de carga no se puede ajustar entre otras cosas porque en la ITV se van a cebar. En el coche de uso diario solia poner el regulador de altura a media posición y regular asi, pero en la ITV me tiraban dado que lo primero que hacian era ponerte el regulador en la posición mas alta. Pero como estamos en una sección clasiquil y no es habitual el cargar nuestros zarrios y normalmente tambien carecen de regulación de altura yo lo que hago es sentarnos 2 en el coche y deposito al 50% y regular asi, con maquina evidentemente. Lo de la pared tambien lo hago, pero eso ya es otra historia, ya que pasamos a la parte racing: Primero regulamos por lo tradicional y luego nos vamos al tramo de pruebas y alli afinamos "al gusto" especialmente largas y la parrilla. Una vez que estoy conforme, entonces si tengo una pared donde marco las referencias para luego poder comprobar sin dar mas vueltas.
bueno, pues preguntando como se hace, sigo sin tenerlo claro, los americanos siempre tienen las cosas cuquis... otiasssss aqui nos conformamos con ... .
Es que para ir legalmente el de "pedales" es el que hay que utilizar, que es con el que te van a inspeccionar. y para ver "bien" no queda otra que una buena recta solitaria. He tenido problemas con mi cpoche de diario y los xenón que en mi tramo de pruebas me alumbraban hasta la molestia las copas de los arboles y sin embargo no veia bien la carretera. El 28 con las H4 alumbraba mejor. Al fianl el problema era de las lamparas bixenon que pese a ser Philips ya no estaban en sus mejores momentos y esa era la razón por la que no dispersaba correctamente. Fue poner unas Osram nuevas y todo cambió milagrosamente. No tuve que tocar la regulación. Como sabes en el E28 los faros exteriores y mas grandes don H4 pero solo funcionan en cortas. Cuando poner largas se encienden los del centro y los del exterior siguen en cortas. O sea, el filamento de largas de las H4 no se utiliza: Obviamente los he modificado para haga el cambio de cortas a largas y asi en largas tengo 4 bombillas de largas. En el E24 sustitui las opticas por las que equipan los bifaro italianos, skodas y algun otro. En este caso son H4 y obviamente nuevas y totalmente compatibles de sujecciones. Hice la misma modificación para el cambio de cortas a largas en los faros exteriores y paso ITV sin el menor problema: En este casi y dado que es el que utilizo en RdR, si que lo voy afinar al tramo de pruebas para conseguir el máximo alcance en largas. Los laterales lo soluciono con unos cuneteros. Eso si, la corta aparte de centrarla bien para que abra lo máximo posible se mantien en cuanto a alturas dentro de la legalidad. Asi que lo de aparatitos y formulas me parece muy bien pero cuando toco algo, ruedas, suspensiones, etc me vol al trao de pruebas en condiciones de marcha con un destornillador en la mano para comprobar y listo. En realidad está "costumbre" la heredé de Estanislao Reverter que antes de salir para cada Rally se cogia el electricista, que es el mismo que me hace a mi las cosas, y se iba al tramo de referencia a ajustar los 10 faros que solia montar, pese a que no hibiera ningún cambio respecto del Rally anterior
tampoco os prodigais con las explicaciones, que fatigas !...yo tambien voy a decir la proxima vez que el ajuste de valvulas se hace con tiempo y con cuidado Why & How to Aim Headlamps and Auxiliary Lamps No matter how good (or bad) your headlamps and fog lamps might be, they'll work effectively and safely only if they're correctly aimed. Lamp aim is by far the main thing that determines how well you can (or can't) see at night—it's even more important than the output and beam pattern of the headlamps themselves. Here's a real example of how crucial it is: if you're using the shine-on-a-wall method, aiming a particular kind of low beam just 2.3 cm (0.9 inch) lower than it should be cuts 26 m (85 feet) off your seeing distance at night! But in North America most people don't know or care much about lamp aim, figuring—very incorrectly—that if they're not getting flashed at night the lamps are OK. Most states and provinces long ago stopped requiring periodic aim checks. The few remaining areas mostly use an unreasonably sloppy go/no-go standard that can only catch vehicles with lights pointing down on the bumper or up in the trees. U.S. and Canadian Federal law doesn't require new vehicles to come with the lamps correctly aimed, so even a brand-new car doesn't necessarily have the lights pointing where they should. It's such a problem that the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety checks, but doesn't adjust the aim of the headlamps on cars they test. They do it this way because most new cars don't get the aim corrected before delivery, and since poor aim worsens the headlight performance rating, this test-as-received policy of IIHS is an effort to push automakers and dealers to do a better job. So "close enough" really isn't good enough; make the effort to get the lamps aimed carefully and correctly, very preferably with an optical aiming machine. That's a device that looks a bit like a TV camera. It gets wheeled in front of each headlamp on your vehicle, adjusted to height, and the optics within the machine permit highly precise visual aim checking and adjustment—definitely the most accurate way to aim lamps. To get an idea of what a proper lamp aim job looks like (on any make or model of vehicle), see this VW document. It can be difficult to find a shop that has one. And even dealerships that have one often don't bother using it; if a customer comes in and complains about the lights, they get randomly raised (if the complaint is "can't see") or lowered (if it's "getting flashed"). Keep calling around until you get the right answer. "We shine them on a wall/on a screen" or "Yeah, we can try and level 'em out for you" or "The headlamps on that vehicle aren't adjustable" are examples of wrong answers. Really beat the bushes before deciding nobody near you has one; ask at high-end body shops and auto dealer service departments, but if you have no luck, try talking with the companies who make the aiming machines. They should be able to tell you who has their machines in your area. Check with American Aimers and Lujan-Sniper. Call Hella USA at 1- 877-22HELLA (1-877-224-3552) and ask who has a Hella Beamsetter. If you just cannot find someone who has an optical aiming machine and is willing to use it correctly, you will have to make do with the distant second-preference method of putting the vehicle on flat, level ground and shining the lamps on a wall a certain distance away. It has to be done as carefully and precisely as possible, so here are detailed instructions: Find a location that has a vertical wall and enough flat, level ground for the length of the vehicle plus 7.6 m (25 feet). This is surely the hardest part of the whole procedure; it's not common to find really, truly flat, level ground that long. Do the best you can. To prepare for aiming, the car should have about half a tank of fuel, weight in the trunk and passenger compartment equal to the most frequently carried load (this may be a full trunk, or it may be an empty one, or anything in between), and weight in the driver's seat equivalent to the most frequent driver. All of the tires should be checked when cold to make sure they're at the correct inflation pressure. Jounce each corner of the car firmly (grasp the bumper and push down several times rhythmically) to ensure that the suspension is settled into a normal position. The wall will be used as an aiming screen, so it should be of a light colour. You'll need to make marks on it, so if it is a wall you're not allowed to deface, use removable tape. Pick a dark or bright colour that will contrast with the light wall so you can see the marks clearly from a distance. Measure 7.6 m (25 feet) straight back from the wall, and mark this position on the floor or ground. Align the front of the vehicle with this floor mark, and then bring the vehicle straight forward, right up to the wall. If you're working on a motorcycle it will have to be held upright and steered straight ahead, so you might want a helper. Make a mark V on the wall directly in front of the centre of the vehicle. Good references for the centre point include such things as hood ornaments, grille badges and license plate brackets. It can sometimes be helpful to go behind the car and sight through the backglass and windshield. Next, make a mark C on the wall directly in front of the axis of each lamp. The lamp axis is often marked with a dot, cross, bulb type designation or name brand, but if not, it is directly in front of the bulb. There is one axis for each lamp, so a vehicle with four lights will have four axes and a vehicle with two lights will have two, plus any auxiliary fog and/or driving lamps that may be present. Now, move the vehicle straight back from the wall until the headlamps are above the floor mark. Walk to the wall and make additional marks: Extend the V mark with a vertical line downward at least 15 cm (6 inches). Next, connect all of the C marks with a horizontal line we'll call H-H. Then, measure downward—this measurement is represented in turquoise here—from each C mark that represents the axis of a lamp that produces a low beam or a fog beam (no need to do this for lamps that produce only a high beam) per the following tables: U.N. (ECE, European, "E-Code") lamps and U.S. ("DOT", "SAE") lamps marked VOL Up to 34.5" (80 cm) 2.1" (53 mm) 35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 2.5" (64 mm) 39.5" or higher (100 cm) 3" (76 mm) U.S. ("DOT", "SAE") lamps marked VOR and older U.S. lamps without a "VOL", "VOR", or "VO" mark Up to 34.5" (80 cm) N/A, do not measure downward 35" to 39" (89-99 cm) 2" (50 mm) 39.5" or higher (100 cm) 3" (76 mm) All lamps producing only high beam and Driving (auxiliary high beam) lamps Any mount height (80cm) N/A, do not measure downward Fog lamps Up to 18" (46 cm) 1.5" (38 mm) 18.5" to 28" (47-71 cm) 3" (76 mm) 28.5" or higher (72 cm) 4" (102 mm) Connect these two newly-measured points with a horizontal line we'll call B-B, represented here in red. After you've done all of this, your wall will be marked like this for a system of two high/low beam headlamps (or for a pair of fog lamps): Or like this for a system of two low- or low/high beam plus two high- beam lamps: Notes for the table and figures shown so far: The visual aim procedure for lamps listed above as "N/A, do not measure downward" does not require the lower B-B horizontal line; just connect your C marks with a horizontal H-H line. The 4-lamp diagram shown here is drawn for two lamps on each side of the car arranged side by side. If your vehicle has two lamps on each side stacked atop each other, canted, or otherwise arranged, your marks for the high beams—represented here by the blue dots—will follow that arrangement. U.S. ("DOT", "SAE") headlamps designed before 1998 won't have a "VOL", "VOR", or "VO" marking. Instead they'll have either three small cones on the front of the lens in a triangular pattern, or a small spirit bubble level built into the top of the headlamp housing, visible with the hood raised. Now draw a vertical line through through the centre of each C point. Do the same with the V point. These lines make it easier to see the reference marks when you are standing 25 feet away, adjusting the aiming screws on the car. You now have an accurate plot on the wall of the height and separation of the headlamps (if your car is level, the ground is level, and the wall is vertical). Note that the "B-B", "C" and "V" designations are for purposes of clarity in this descriptive article. It is not necessary to draw the letters on the wall—just plot the points. Of course, you may use the letters in your aiming procedure if it will help you. Low Beams: Vertical Aiming Important note: These instructions are written for countries with right- hand traffic (vehicles flow on the right side of the road). To use them in countries with left-hand traffic, such as the U.K., Australia, and Japan, read "left" for "right" and vice versa. The low beam pattern of a visually-aimable headlamp has a distinct horizontal "cutoff" at the top of the beam pattern. It may be hard/razor- sharp, or it may be softer/fuzzier. Below the cutoff is bright light, and above is dark. Vertical aim is done by measuring and adjusting the height of this cutoff relative to the reference marks you put on the wall. For U.N. (ECE, European, "E-code") and U.S. VOL headlamps, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the left half of the beam pattern, and it should be aligned with the B-B line. U.S. (DOT, SAE) VOR headlamps can have a straight-across cutoff line extending all the way across the top of the low beam, or a stairstep- shaped cutoff that's lower on the left and higher on the right side of the beam, or just a squared-off top edge of the high-intensity "hot spot" (brightest part of the beam). Whichever style it is, the cutoff to pay attention to is at the top of the right half of the beam pattern. It should be aligned with the applicable horizontal line per the table above. Motorcycle headlamps often have a straight-across cutoff line at the top of the low beam; they get aimed this same way (again, you'll need a helper or other means of holding the bike upright and steered straight ahead). A low beam with a flat-across cutoff gets aimed like this: For older U.S. headlamps, the ones with the three lens bumps or the spirit level, you will have to do your best to place the top edge of the low beam's high-intensity "hot spot" on the applicable horizontal line per the table above. Low Beams: Horizontal Aiming The technical specifications for U.S. (DOT, SAE) VOL, VOR, and VO headlamps are such that in most cases these lamps cannot be aimed horizontally; no provision for horizontal aim adjustment is provided. American regulators writing the rules in the mid-1990s declared there is no way "without damaging the beam pattern" to define a visual cue, such as a kink in the cutoff, to allow for accurate horizontal placement of a headlight beam. They did not comment at that time on the fact that cars get in fender-benders that knock the headlamps out of horizontal alignment, but they did say the low beam patterns they were defining were wide enough that horizontal aim wouldn't really matter. Time—and scrutiny by the likes of IIHS and Consumer Reports—have not borne this out. Notably, the European beam pattern introduced in 1956 (and still in use) was designed to allow for horizontal and vertical aimability, and that's been working fine for over six decades now. And even in North America, there are plenty of situations where horizontal aim can and should be checked and corrected. Vehicles that have had a different- than-original type of headlamp installed, for example. U.N. (European, ECE, "E-code") and VOL headlamps have one or two kinks in the cutoff line. If there's just one kink, it's where the cutoff bends upward from horizontal. If there are two kinks, the cutoff line will look like a stairstep. For the kind of cutoff line with a single kink, adjust each headlamp so that its kink lines up (left to right) with the C mark, then adjust the horizontal aim slightly leftward so the angled, ramp-shaped part of the cutoff line aproaches your C mark. It's best if the angled/ramp part of the cutoff line just barely touches the C mark; this slight leftward nudge of the aim increases seeing distance down the road relative to European practice, but don't overdo it; excessive leftward aim will result in excessive glare to oncoming traffic, and it will pull the high beams out of optimal alignment. The beam, with correct vertical and horizontal aim, should look like this: For the kind of cutoff line with two kinks forming a stairstep, adjust the upper kink so it lines up (left to right) with the C mark in front of the headlamp you're adjusting. By placing the upper rather than lower kink in line with the C mark, you will obtain optimal seeing distance without creating other problems. The beam, correctly aimed vertically and horizontally, should look like this: For older U.S. headlamps, the ones with the three lens bumps or the spirit level, you will have to do your best to place the left edge of the low beam "hot spot" on (or slightly overlapping) the vertical line extending down from the C mark in front of the lamp you're aiming, so the correctly-aimed beam (vertically and horizontally) looks like this: The Volkswagen PDF linked near the top of this page contains more images of various low beam patterns; study it to get an idea of what you're looking for. After adjusting a high/low beam headlamp on low beam, do not attempt to readjust it on high beam. All high/low beam headlamps are meant to be adjusted on the low beam setting only; the high beam adjustment is correct when the low beam adjustment is correct. If you are experiencing a problem where setting the low beams correctly places the high beams too high, but setting the high beams correctly places the low beams too low, you are dealing with a faulty or poorly-designed headlamp. Driving Lamps and High-Beam-Only Headlamps In 4-Lamp Systems These instructions apply to headlamps that produce only a high beam, and to all "driving" (auxiliary high beam) lamps. These must be adjusted so that the bright, central "hot spot" of the beam is straight ahead of the lamp in both the vertical and horizontal planes. Pay attention to the "C" points you've plotted—make sure you're looking at the "C" point for the lamp you're working on, and not the one for the lamp next to it. Use the intersection of the horizontal and vertical lines at point C for each headlamp as "cross-hair sights" to centre the high beam hot spot, like this: Pay attention to just one lamp at a time. It is best to unplug the headlamp you are not working on, so light from its beam pattern doesn't mislead you or make it hard to keep track of hot spots and cutoffs. Also be sure to disconnect or cover the adjacent high/low beam lamp when you are aiming its high-beam-only neighbour. Fog Lamps Fog lamps are aimed using a procedure very similar to that used for low- beam headlamps. The cutoff extends clear across the top of the beam pattern. Simply align the fog lamp so that the cutoff at the top of the beam falls on the appropriate B-B line for the lamp mounting height, as listed in the table above. Fog lamps' horizontal aim is less crucial than that of headlamps, and there's some leeway. Generally the fog lamps get pointed straight ahead, but you can "crosseye" or "walleye" them a bit—not too much—if that's necessary to get the coverage you need on the roads you drive. A properly aimed fog lamp looks like this on the wall: tengo las tablas pero como este foro es como es las imagenes no se copian
esto es lo que buscaba, al final lo he encontrado por ahi: the HH line represents tha line of the centers of the lights as they are placed in the car the line BB is a 50mm lower line parallel to HH (in case that you separate the car from the wall only 5 m) (if you separate the car 10m from the wall the BB line has to go 100mm below the HH line) high beams and also driving ligths .
interesante yo las pongo un poco bajas para que pase itv, pero mirare eso. aunque en mi garaje el coche lo pongo a 2 metros de la pared
y a puesta a punto "fina" me refiero a la comprobación práctica del correcto haz de luz... El Código de Circulación establece, que cualquier vehículo capaz de superar los 10 km/h debe disponer de un sistema de iluminación, no deslumbrante, capaz de iluminar eficazmente una zona de 40 metros de longitud, como mínimo, por delante del vehículo. Para conseguir este objetivo se utiliza (en España desde 1968) el HAZ EUROPEO UNIFICADO. Dicho haz está diseñado de tal manera que: Hasta los 25 o 30 metros por delante del vehículo, proporciona iluminancias superiores a los 12 lux, lo que proporciona sensación de seguridad en circulación en recta y permite realizar una conducción confortable en carretera sinuosa El quid para no deslumbrar es que el pico del lado derecho no sobrepase los 30 m, Y el centrado del pico consiga el máximo alcance en largas
y para el que se aburra aquí información mas tecnica. A mi mas que ayudarme me ha acabado con las pocas expectativas que tenia con mis capacidades visuales.
mmmm... yo tengo unas marcas hechas en la puerta del garaje... que marcan la altura y el punto del ángulo donde sería el centro del haz de cada faro.. pero tampoco me rompo mucho la cabeza... por de pronto porque de noche no salgo... saqué las medidas del manual de taller del E24. Y tampoco me la rompo, porque viendo lo que se consigue con unas luces modernas... sé que nunca (salvo en largas) llegaré a ver lo que se ve... lo que sí le puse son bombillas de esas que dan el "nosecuanto" más de intensidad.
Es que eso del nosecuanto, tienes toda la razón... Salvo los que se pasan la legalidad por el arco de triumfo, está fijado por norma los lumenes máximos que se pueden alcanzar en caza zona delimitada del asimetrico normativo. Salvo que la luz se mas amarillita, mas blanquita o mas azul poco mas se puede hacer porque para saltarte la legalidad pones lamparas de 100 w o de 160 W y ya está. Asi que cuando cuentan eso de mas intensidad tampoco entiendo demasiado lo que quieren decir, salvo que las lamparas "normales" se quedan bastante por debajo de la norma. Otra cosa es la duración que supongo que dependerá de la calidad de los materiales
no se cuanto es que no recuerdo ya... años ha que las instalé... y no sé si eran de las de +30% o +50%... por encima de eso suele aparecer indicado que es solo para uso en circuito... vamos que eran bombillas totalmente homologadas de Phillips... se notaba claramente respecto de unas estándar, no para tirar cohetes... evidentemente. pero vamos... que comparado con las actuales... salvo que te saltes la legalidad... o montes led "homologados"... que no me interesan porque ya digo... el uso... no lo requiere...
estoy mayor como para pintarrajear paredes, creo que me voy a pasar...3 pueblos,...si,...no dos, 3, ya veremos estos tios... ">
Dejando aparte algunas cosas discutibles de lo que dice en el fondo el articulo solo se refiere al "Mantenimiento". El problema es que hay coches cuya superfie optica es escasa o está mal diseñada la mayor parte de las veces por cuestiones esteticas. Si el faro está "desgastado" pues metes uno nuevo y se acabo el problema, pero si es insuficiente ya es otro tema y segun que uso se le de pues hay que hacer algo de bricolaje. A Veces con meter reles y alimentación directa de bateria ya se gana mucho., aunque eso es algo que hay que hacer para el resto de otras posibles soluciones sobre todo si implican un mayor consumo.
si el articulo es un arrejunto de generalidades, muy en la linea del "periodismo" de hoy ultimamente intento no leer nada que provenga de agregadores, es una perdida de tiempo y me sube la melancolia
